Here we have an unsigned RGM Big-Date Prototype from about 12 to 15 years ago. We are offering this watch for sale.
The watch is stainless-steel with a hand cut silver Engine-Turned dial made here at RGM, the hands are blued steel. The case is 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm thick, with sapphire crystals front and back. The movement is a Swiss 2896 big-date.
If interested email sales@rgmwatches.com
We want to share this great resource for learning, it’s great for children and adults!
All the Best
RGM Watch Co.
RGM PS-801-E in Copenhagen Denmark Summer 2019
As the Coronavirus and its impact continues to evolve and develop, RGM remains focused on the health and safety of our employees and our community, as well as our commitment to you, our customers. For those reasons, we’ve temporarily suspended hosting visitors in an effort to stay in line with State and Federal recommendations and mandates.
We are still building watches and doing repairs. We are available by phone, email, and social media. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us.
Thank you
Roland Murphy
RGM Watch Co.
The RGM Model 160/180 was made in a small series several years ago, it’s basically a larger lefty version of our Model 160. The watch is 42mm in diameter with an automatic Valjoux 7751 movement, the case is stainless-steel with sapphire crystals both front and back. The rectangle pushers and cabochon crown make this a very elegant triple date moon-phase chronograph. The most impressive feature is it’s beautiful solid silver hand cut Engine-Turned dial.
The two remaining watches are being offered at the special price of $7900. Contact us at 717-653-9799 or sales@rgmwatches.com
The brand’s latest piece is the Model 500-GMT, a sports watch designed in collaboration with bicycle frame building legend Richard Sachs. It has an ETA automatic in lieu of something in-house but is nevertheless a well-executed piece for the frequent traveler with an aesthetic born from two great artisans.
The RGM 801 Skeleton is one of the watches featured in the following Monochrome article.
“Well-executed dials, decorated with classic Grand Feu enamel or elaborate guilloché, can add thousands to the price and define the character of a piece; however, there are times when the sheer absence of a dial can result in the most intriguing aesthetic. André-Charles Caron, legendary clockmaker for Louis XV of France in the mid-18th century, developed the first skeleton watch around 1760. The style adds a visual sophistication that few dials can compete with and creates the ultimate horological spectacle. Here’s a list of eight great skeleton watches available today, ranging in price from “money is no object” to surprisingly accessible.”
In 1910, Robert Falcon Scott embarked on an ambitious expedition to Antarctica aboard the Terra Nova.
An intriguing story, beautiful images, things that I like…. Throughout my career that’s what inspired me to create many RGM models. The Terra Nova is a perfect example.
I came up an idea to make a multiple-piece dial that featured very classic elements, like a chapter ring with an engine-turned Breguet line, but with the center of the dial being fashioned from different materials, depending on the watch I wanted to make. But I needed a focal point for my idea.
Like most people, I searched the Internet and stumbled upon one of the most majestic maritime scenes I’d ever seen—a painting of the Terra Nova. When I dug into the ship’s background and mythology, I became even more fascinated. And the name was perfect, too.
The Inspiration
I’ve made several nautical-themed watches over the years. Sailing ships are strong, graceful, imbued with the mysteries of the deep. The Terra Nova painting evoked movement, and I wanted the dial miniature to do the exact same. I decided to use Mother of Pearl. Its multifaceted luster is a great canvas for this style of painting because, when you turn the watch, the background refracts light in various directions, reflecting the illusion of depth and motion.
The completed miniature painting
I visualized the finished piece over and over in my head as we set to work on creating our take on the Terra Nova. Once the in-house design was complete, we sent the art off with the Mother of Pearl for the miniature hand-paining work to be completed by a master artist. When the dial came back to us it was more beautiful than I’d imagined! I knew it was going to be one of the most captivating watches we’ve ever made. “It’s one of those watches you just keep looking at; I can’t take my eyes off it.”
I didn’t just want to make a watch, though. I wanted to tell the story of Terra Nova’s expedition through seldom-charted territory. The case-back gave me a place to do just that. During my research I found a 20th century map of Scott’s trek to the South Pole. The map had a lot of detail, which was great, but we had to draw it to scale, taking care to keep the integrity of the map intact while fitting it into onto a round case-back. Recreating the map proved just as technical as making the art. After 3 weeks of redrafts and edits we had a rendering of the map that was to be engraved onto the case-back.
I must say—it is very satisfying to watch a project like this take shape, to see the finished watch in your hand looking better than envisioned. Currently, there is only one Terra Nova watch, but we may make a few more pieces. I miss this watch already, but I know it’s in good hands.
If you have an idea, let RGM help you make it a reality that will last for generations.
Roland Murphy and the RGM Team
Click here to read more about Robert Falcon Scott’s Terra Nova Expedition
Leap year only comes once every four years, so we want to celebrate it with a special offer. Purchase or order any RGM watch between now and February 29th and get a custom-made strap of any color, a 3-year warranty, and a surprise gift at no extra charge. All you have to do is mention this offer when you place the order.
To help you choose the strap you want to make we will email you color and skin samples to choose from, and we can help you with recommendations based on your input if you would like.
We made the following video to show some of the steps involved with making a solid gold winding rotor here at RGM.
STONE MARQUETRY
Working with stone requires great skill as each stone has its own specific hardness, the marquetry craftsmen must have just the right touch. For all their beauty, hard stones are extremely difficult to handle, even with skilled craftsman the stones are fragile and must be cut thin, shaped, and polished.
The reward for this demanding work is a miniature puzzle, each cut piece will have its own place in the tiny mosaic creating a beautiful piece of art made of stone. The possibilities are endless using this technique, the craftsmen can reinterpret the most spectacular and beautiful images, scenes and landscapes.
For the watch pictured here we picked the famous Yosemite tunnel view. Personally visiting Yosemite will leave you with a life long lasting impression of the beauty and wonderful place, the natural beauty is incredible. I would advise everyone to have it on there travel list.
Roland
This Platinum version of the 103R RGM was made in 1998, We also made this model in 18K Rose Gold.
Roland G. Murphy is the founder of RGM Watch a U.S. based independent company. Having first studied in the U.S. at Bowman Technical school, he continued his education by going to W.O.S.T.E.P. RGM watches was founded in 1992.
1. Describe briefly your childhood.
I grew up in Maryland here in the USA, my father worked at a factory that made telephone cable, he worked long hours but always made time for me on the weekends, we visited museums, explored photography, and many other activities. I loved to build and repair things as a child, car models, slot cars, tree forts, and much more.
2. As a child did you have any driving ambition?
I loved building, so my first desire was to be a carpenter, I pursed this and took carpentry and cabinet making in vocational high school. During high school I worked a half day for a company that made Grandfather clocks, even though I worked on the wood cabinets, this is when my first interest in timepieces started to grow.
3. What is your first significant memory as a child? I remember staying with my Grandmother when my family went to the World’s Fair in Montreal Canada back in 1967. I was 6 at the time, I am sure other memories are bouncing around in my head, but this is the one that comes to mind.
4. Have you ever had another profession?
I mentioned above, I worked as a cabinetmaker and carpenter for a short while.
5. What made you decide to go in the direction you are currently in?
When I worked at the small factory making Grandfather clocks, they went into bankruptcy and a lot of items were up for sale, my father and I bought cabinets movements etc.. I assembled some cabinets with the German clock movements and sold them. I started to be very interested in the movements, I would set one up on a table with a hole in it so the weights could drop thru, then I could sit there and examine how everything worked. Next, I took a movement apart and put it back together and it worked, this was the point I was hooked on horology!
A friend told us about Bowman Technical school which was Lancaster PA, here in the USA where I first learned clockmaking and watchmaking, after that I went to W.O.S.T.E.P. in Neuchatel Switzerland in 1986. After that I worked for SMH (Swatch Group now) back in Lancaster, PA in product development for the Hamilton watch brand, after 5 years there I started RGM in 1992.
6. What’s the worst job you’ve had to do?
The worst thing I can think of was putting plywood on a large roof when I was a carpenter in very cold and windy weather. I hated working outside in the cold.
7. What’s been the hardest moment in your life so far, and how did you overcome it?
I would have to say it was when my father died in 2016, he had a stroke so it came very suddenly, the day before he was fine and we had a very nice lunch, and the next day everything had changed in an instance. My wife and children helped me thru this time, and of course staying busy is always beneficial in these situations. At times I still have to deal with this big loss in my life.
8. Who has had the strongest influence on you?
In the watch industry I would have to say fellow independent watchmakers, I have many friends who have been an inspiration and a help from time to time. I hesitate to name them as I would feel horrible if I forget to mention one. My only goal when I started was to be able to make a living doing what I love making and repairing watches. I have achieved that goal.
9. What are you most proud of?
Bringing watch movement making back to the USA (on a small scale), being far from the modern watchmaking center in Switzerland this was a mountain to climb.
10. What advice would you give to a 20 something someone thinking of taking a similar path as you?
I would never discourage someone from pursuing their dream. I would however let them know that it takes hard work, determination, endurance, and the ability to push thru disappointment. I would also tell them to learn from their failures and mistakes, sometimes this is the most important aspect of pursuing anything. And always do what you love, you won’t be very good at something that you’re not passionate about.
11. Name three things on your bucket list.
1. See my grandchildren grow up.
2. Go to Yellowstone National Park.
3. Complete the watches in my head.
12. Where do you think the industry is going to be in 10 years time.
1. More watch brands selling direct and online. 2. More innovations and high-tech materials, some for the good, and some for the bad. 3. I hope a return to more classic watchmaking!
Click here for original post with more information about this model
The stainless steel cases for the model 500 are just beautiful and feel wonderful on the wrist. Final engraving will be done soon. We just received the dial and the hands and they look great. The crown and case tube will arrive in about a week, it will be a little larger then the one in the pictures. The straps are in the mail to us and are a little different then the one in these pictures.
We will have the watch to show at our event at JR in New York, and at the WatchTime NY show this month. Click here for event details. We will also have one at the Philly Bike Expo in Richards Sachs stand.
In the picture above you see the 3D printed prototype, we had to revise the design 4 or 5 times until the 3D printed case was comfortable on the wrist. The second item in the picture is the prototype of our turning bezel system we developed here at RGM. The brass case was the first prototype in metal, we made a few small modifications before the stainless steel case was made. The end result is an RGM sport watch we are very proud of.
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We will extend the following pre-order benefits until the end of October. The first watches will ship the end of November.
Limited Edition of 50 Watches.
Anyone who pre-orders the watch now will get some extra goodies at no extra charge as outlined below.
3-year warranty in place of standard 2-year warranty.
Extra RGM watch strap.
Richard Sachs water bottle.
Signed Richard Sachs cycling cap.
To order the watch, a 50% deposit is required, and the balance is due when the watch is ready later this year. The price of the watch is $4750 on strap. An optional stainless-steel bracelet will be available later.
Call to place an order 717-653-9799
From the October 2019 Men’s Journal
October 5th
At RGM in Mount Joy on Saturday, October 5th from 9am to 4pm we will have an Open-House of our workshops and we will have watches on display. You can also see how we make our watches from our hand made Engine-Turning to the assembly of our Caliber 801 movement.
Also, during this event you can order or purchase a watch including the following.
New RGM Watches
Pre-Owned RGM Watches
Out of Production RGM Watches
Traded-in watches from other brands like Omega, Rolex, Hamilton, JLC, IWC, Tag Heuer, and others.
No Reservations needed
Also, we will have watch straps and other items available for purchase.
A Little background on William Penn:
From IW Magazine in 2000
William Penn (October 14, 1644 – July 30, 1718) was an English colonial proprietor and the son of the admiral and politician Sir William Penn. Penn was a writer, early Quaker, and founder of the English North American colony the Province of Pennsylvania. He was an early advocate of democracy and religious freedom.
Many of you know we made a watch style named after William Penn. If you would like to see more on the watch click here.
Last week a local gentleman stopped by and gave us the research he did on the deed of our property here at RGM, 801 West Main St. He does this as a hobby and for the historical society, he was eager to show us what he found.
RGM William Penn Model 121
The earliest deed record he could find for the property here at RGM was dated 1743, the recorded owner of the property was “Honorable the Proprietaries of Pennsylvania”, the owners were Richard and Thomas Penn the sons of William Penn.
How fitting that we made a watch in the name of William Penn, he was an important figure in the history of the United States and especially Pennsylvania.
Roland
We started using the Hirsch Performance straps a few years ago for some of our sport watches like the RGM Model 151. We have found that most of our customers love these straps because they are durable, flexible, water-resistant, and most importantly they are very comfortable.
RGM Model 151-PR Professional Pilot
You can order several sizes from our RGM accessories page, and they come standard on many model 151 watches.
Click here for the RGM Accessories page
Try one your love it!
At RGM in Mount Joy on Saturday, October 5th from 9am to 4pm we will have an Open-House of our workshops and we will have watches on display. You can also see how we make our watches from our hand made Engine-Turning to the assembly of our Caliber 801 movement.
Also, during this event you can order or purchase a watch including the following.
New RGM Watches
Pre-Owned RGM Watches
Out of Production RGM Watches
Traded-in watches from other brands like Omega, Rolex, Hamilton, JLC, IWC, Tag Heuer, and others.
No Reservations needed
Come see us in Manhattan at the Jean-Rousseau Boutique on Thursday, October 24th from 4pm to 9pm. During this event we will be showing our watches and the beautiful watch straps and leather work from JR.
If you order or purchase an RGM watch during the one day event, a custom JR strap will be included at no extra charge. You can pick the leather, stitching, and how the strap is marked, perhaps with your initials next to ours!
JR will also offer 10% off on custom straps, and 15% on stock straps and watch accessories (pouches, rolls and cases) during the event.
Atelier Jean Rousseau
373 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10017
Between E. 45th and E. 46th Streets
No Reservations needed
Once again we will be at the WatchTime New York watch event in beautiful Gotham Hall. Come see us at our booth and talk watches with us, and see what’s new. The event begins with a VIP Event on Friday, October 25, followed by a full day of educational panels, seminars, tours, and events on Saturday, October 26. The WatchTime event is always one of the highlights of the year, so be sure to register early as it often sells out.
EOT C1
I thought I would talk a little about RGM and it’s relationship with EOT. I (Roland Murphy) started EOT which is short for equationoftime.com back in the late 90’s. It’s a small watch forum site that has always taken a back seat to RGM, but it does have some very loyal contributors which has kept the site going all these years.
Years ago we made a few EOT watches which were designed and assembled here at RGM, the EOT C1, C2, Sea3, and the EOT Model 22 Deck watch, the deck watch was inspired by Deck watches and Marine Chronometers made here in Lancaster County back during WWII.
EOT C2 and Sea3
The EOT watches were popular especially the C1, and the Model 22. We might build a new EOT watch going forward from time to time but nothing is in the works as of this writing. We can still assemble a few EOT watches, if interested send us an email, sales@rgmwatches.com.
Matt V did a very nice review back in 2005 of the EOT Model 22 Deck Watch, I thought I would share that review here which will also help to preserve it.
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A Homage to Hamilton's classic deck watch
2005
Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892, Hamilton has been producing watches for the general public since 1893. But in 1940, the Hamilton watch factory focused production on timepieces for the US military and supporting the war efforts. Over one million different watches were produced in their factory during the war and Hamilton continued to develop and produce new timepieces in Pennsylvania for as long as 1969. Ever since, the Hamilton Watch Factory is part of the Swatch Group and over the past few years has released a number of homage watches celebrating some of their past horological successes. But let's go back to the 1940's and World War II. When the US Navy Bureau of Ships was looking for an inexpensive deck chronometer for use on Navy vessels, Hamilton responded. Ships at the time had to rely on accurate timepieces not only for Navigation, but also to synchronize movements with other ships for example in supply convoys, radio discipline and so on. A mass produced (yet nevertheless accurate) ships chronometer was an important detail to help keep ships moving and supply lines going.
The challenge was nothing new: an English carpenter by the name of John Harrison was the first to build a successful clock that actually worked on a ship moving in all 3 dimensions. In the year 1761, John Harrison's famous "Chronometer #4" was successfully taken along during a sea voyage to use accurate time as a method of navigation (Longitude). Harrison proved that it was possible to create a timepiece that was both accurate enough to be used for navigation aboard a ship and small enough not to interfere with the ship's operation. Harrison’s clock however was extremely complex and difficult, thus expensive to reproduce. So in the 1780s and 1790s two great rivals, John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw developed a new form of chronometer that could be mass-produced. Earnshaw invented a particular form of escapement with a device called a "spring detent" and a type of balance wheel that compensated for changes in temperature.
So how did Hamilton address the issues at hand in the 1940's? How did they come up with ways to keep the watch wound properly, avoid that an operator might setting the time by mistake when winding the watch, keep the movement running accurately in different positions and at different temperatures?
The new Hamilton deck chronometer was designed and built specifically to meet the needs of the U.S. Navy. At a massive 35-size, it was by no means a small watch but nevertheless it was smaller and constructed simpler than the famous model 21, making it perfect for mass production. The movement inside the "Model 22" is a manual wind 21 jewel lever escapement chronometer movement with a Breguet style overcoil hairspring. A 60 inch long mainspring insured a steady amount of power to the gear train and a biaxial thermal expansion balance wheel as well as an Elinvar hairspring are responsible to keep the balance swinging at the same pace, independent of temperature. A power reserve indicator as well as about 48 hours of power reserve helped keep the chronometer running.
The whole package was typically stored either inside a box with gimbals to keep the watch dial-up even during extreme roll and pitch of a ship. However, another version looked more like a pocket watch and was kept inside a padded box without any gimbals, but a glass covered opening that allowed to see the time without opening the box.
An ingenious "pin" on the outside of the watch case at the 11 o'clock position needed to be depressed before the crown could be pulled out in order to set the time; this simple "safety device" prevented accidental time setting or change of time when winding the watch.
The dial of the "Model 22" was an off-white color (more of a silver color in the civilian versions produced after the war) with black printing. No luminous material was used on the dial or the large black "spade type" hands. A unique and oversized crown with a groove in the middle placed in between thick crown guards makes the Hamilton model 22 instantly recognizable while making it easy to wind the watch or to set the time, probably even for the large fingers of a rough sailor .
An acrylic (plastic) crystal in a coin edge bezel that is simply screwed onto the watch case covers the dial, making it a breeze to replace the crystal even without special tools should the need ever arise. The back is easily unscrewed as well and a soft iron cover protects the movement from magnetic fields.
The movement itself is nicely decorated with Geneva stripes. Its designation is engraved and states "Hamilton Watch Co. Model 22, 21 jewels, Adjusted to Temp & 8 positions, Made in U.S.A." and in my case " US NAVY - BU Ships 1942" as well as the individual serial number. A fine regulation (that reminds me a little of a swan neck regulator somehow) helps adjust the regulator lever in small increments to regulate the movement to perform to chronometer specs even today.
The Hamilton "Model 22" is a classic Marine Chronometer and Deck Watch that certainly played a significant role in American horology, so it was only a matter of time before someone decided to pay homage to this watch and to come out with a wristwatch in the tradition of the Hamilton Model 22.
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Founded in Mount Joy (Lancaster County), Pennsylvania around 1991, Roland Murphy's "RGM" watch company has long been an insider's tip for great quality American watchmaking. Roland Murphy originally went to school for clock making in Lancaster, PA at the Bowman Technical school. In the clockmaking course, he also covered pocket watches, which is how he discovered his interest in watchmaking. Roland ended up going to school at WOSTEP in Switzerland in 1986 and returned to the US to work in the watch industry in product development for a watch group and for one of their brands. He worked on the design of new watches, placing orders for sample components like dials, hands and cases and discovered that he had a talent for putting together new designs and watches. So in the early 1990's, that talent turned into a business that today not only produces some of the finest custom timepieces, but is also well known amongst watch enthusiasts for quality service work. Besides the RGM line of watches, Roland started an endeavor to offer more affordable watches under the "Equation of Time" label, also known for a watch and dive watch forum with the same name on the Internet.
I don't recall when I first heard about the idea for the EOT model 22 on the watch forum. However I do remember seeing the first drawings and hearing about some of the ideas for the homage watch during a get-together of watch enthusiasts in Lancaster, PA at the "Convergence" event in 2003. At the time, a watch under at least 40mm in diameter didn't appeal to me at all and my requests to consider a larger case size went unheard. The following year, at the "Convergence" meeting in Lancaster in 2004, Roland officially introduced the model 22 and I finally had a chance to check it out "in the flesh" and to strap it on my wrist for a personal "test ride".
Well, I shouldn't have done that. This is the second time something like that has happened to me (the first time was trying on a Panerai "just for size" during a vacation in London in 2003 causing me to start saving my watch funds for a few months until I was finally able to buy my first Panerai) so what can I say: I fell in love with the watch right there and than.
Roland and Rich really tried everything to stay true to the spirit of the Hamilton Model 22. From the look of the dial on their homage watch, the hands, the crown and crown guards to the packaging with a rich wooden box with a thick leather strap just like on the original deck watch box, part of the "Limited Edition" package (see photo on the left, photo courtesy of EOT).
The "Limited Edition" sells at US$ 2,200.00 and offers the watch on an alligator strap with an inscribed case back and individual serial number (one of only 50 pieces). Furthermore it comes inside the wooden presentation box in the tradition of the Hamilton Model 22. The other version offered by EOT is the "Standard Edition". For US$ 1,800.00, it comes on a regular leather strap (with quick change spring bars), a steel case back without inscription / individual serial number and a pouch and outer box. An additional US$ 145.00 you can get a sapphire crystal case back and US$ 75.00 will buy you a different bezel (smooth) to change the looks of the watch.
Well, I went with the "Standard 22" plus the crystal case back and received it as a Christmas present from my wife this past Christmas. Since than, it has changed my views on non-black dial watches as well as watches that are less than 40mm in diameter and the EOT model 22 found its way onto my wrist surprisingly often even against some serious competition (see photo on the right, photo courtesy of EOT) .
Movement
Soprod SA
The EOT model 22 uses a 21-jewel, hand-wound "SO 7001RM" Swiss movement, finished with Geneva stripes and blued screws. According to the EOT site, it "includes some exclusive modifications". The movement is obviously based on a Peseux 7001 manual wind movement, produced since 1971 (now ETA). The original Peseux 7001 manual wind movement has a diameter of only 23.3 mm and a 2.5 mm height, only 17 Jewels, sub second at 6, a power reserve of 42 hours and beats at 21,600 bph. The version used here seems to be the modified version by "Soprod", the so called "cal. Peseux 7001-SO" with Nivarox 1 hairspring, Glucydur balance, adjusted to five positions and resulting in an increased height of 4mm to support a wind indicator (power reserve indicator) at the top, in line with the center of the sub-seconds at the bottom and the central minute and hour hands. I have no information about the extent and detail of the modifications for the EOT model 22 and the website doesn't offer more detail either about this unique movement. The only other watches I have seen so far using this movement are the Anonimo model 5002 (selling for $1,800 as well) and the Limes "GangReserve" (U73W.2-LHR1.1), selling for as low as $1425.00. The decoration is so nicely done that I absolutely recommend getting the crystal back option that allows a view of the mechanics!
Case, Crystal and Crown
The stainless steel case of the model 22 is available in two different finished; polished or bead-blasted matte. My experience with other watches in the past has been that scratches were difficult to touch up or to remove with a bead-blasted finish, so I opted for the polished finish on my model 22. While it may be a little more flashy than the original Hamilton model 22 looks, this was going to be my dress watch and therefore the nicely polished finish was a plus for me. And indeed, the case and finish on my model 22 were absolutely smooth and perfect. Both the bezel as well as the sapphire case back have a beautiful coin edge which helps when you want to remove (unscrew) the bezel or case back. A really nice feature if you scratch or damage either and want to replace them. A slightly domed sapphire crystal has the original feel to it while offering modern scratch resistance. The crown looks like a miniature version of the original from Hamilton and is large enough to make winding or setting the watch a pure joy. Speaking about winding the movement: this thing winds really smooth and I remember someone saying about it that it's "just like butter".
The watch has a 39mm diameter without the crown and almost 45mm with crown. Lug tip to lug tip it measures 44mm and the lug width is 24mm.With the crystal back, it measures not quite 13mm thick.
Dial and Hands
Hamilton's original used black spade hands and the hands on the EOT model 22 look very similar to the original. One of the first things I noticed was that the minute hand of the EOT is a tiny bit longer than the minute track and extends over the edge. I am not sure if this is deliberate or a result of a missed tolerance and to be honest, I wasn't quite certain initially if this was going to bother me long term. However it seems that close-up photography exaggerates the issue and during regular use, I haven't even noticed it at all. The dial itself is an interesting silver gray color with a texture that sometimes looks bead-blasted, sometimes looks like it has been brushed in one direction. It seems to change color depending on the light, from a silver white to a warm off-white which contributes to its beauty. Under a loupe it almost looks like the dial printing is actually etched into the dial. No logo or manufacturers name adorns the face, just the "Lancaster, PA, U.S.A." and "Chronometer" designation as well as the "Up / Down" indications on the wind indicator. I did notice a small irregularity in the close-up shots of the number "20" in the sub seconds dial; not sure if this is an issue with just my watch or if the top of the number "2" is meant to be thinly printed on all dials. The hands are painted black with some sort of powder coating, which allows them to keep a classic matte black (anthracite), sometimes slightly brown appearing look rather than a modern shiny and more reflective "flashy" plastic look. A detail that I really appreciate on this watch!
Accuracy
The 21-jewel, hand-wound "SO 7001RM" came to me running 5 seconds fast per day on the wrist with a beat error of 0.3ms and a 326 degree amplitude. After about 4 weeks it is running now about +2s/24h on the wrist and still has the same beat error and amplitude. I am very happy with the performance so far, well within COSC chronometer specs and I can live with the fact that the movement doesn't "hack".
Strap, Buckle or Bracelet
In spite of its smaller size, the EOT model 22 has a 24mm lug width, just like the 44mm Panerai models and thus allows me to take advantage of all the 24mm straps that I have already collected for my Panerai (and all the interesting, often exotic 24mm straps that are being offered on the market in 24mm). The generic leather strap that came with the EOT "Standard 22" was nothing to rave about. While the "Special Edition" comes with a genuine alligator strap, this one simply comes with a padded leather strap (choice brown or black) with a quick-change springbar. The buckle is generic as well. While a nicer strap IMHO would have probably been fit for a watch at this price level, I understand the need to differentiate the "Limited Edition" from the "Standard Edition" and luckily have a few nice straps to wear the watch on. Currently I am switching back and forth between a padded alligator strap with large scales in tan color with white stitching (Breitling style, see below) and a thick alligator strap (Panerai style, see at the top) with large scales in black with matching black stitching.
User Manual and Packaging
The EOT model 22 came inside a black EOT leather pouch and outer box. No manual or additional warranty papers were included (but I believe that EOT/RGM has no problem tracking these watches to their respective owners for their 1 year warranty). The Packaging for the "Standard Version" is nothing fancy, but than again I didn't want to spend an additional US$ 400 for the "Limited Edition" with the nice wooden box, so I have nothing to complain about in regards to the basic packaging.
Comfort
Really not much to say about that one; the low and nicely down curving lugs set the watch low and comfortably on the wrist. All edges and corners are smooth, nothing that feels in the way. A note though: I am wearing my watches on the right wrist and have never been bothered by the large crown and crown guards, so I can't say with certainty if these could potentially be an issue and dig into the wrist/hand when the watch is worn on the left.
Value
The EOT model 22 is a very unique watch with a proud heritage, but even more importantly: it is a beautiful watch. I have caught myself so often over the past few weeks just admiring the simple beauty. I don't know what it is about this watch, its provenance, the fact that it was designed and assembled here in the US by a small independent watch manufacturer, the fact that only very few people know about them or own / wear them, the lack of "brand name" on the dial and watch...or simply its classic looks. I love this thing. By all standards, this is not an inexpensive watch and I have been asked by other WIS why I didn't go for a different watch instead, with examples ranging from various brand names to different styles of watches with totally different movements.
The answer isn't that simple. Yes, there are lots of watches at a lower price offering great value. But there is no other watch just like this, no other watch that I know off that feels like this to me and has the memories attached. I know and have met the people that made this watch, that designed it, that assembled it and that sent it out to me and I know that I can contact them should I need help with it. And as much as I'd have liked to get the cool wooden box and genuine alligator strap of the Limited Edition with the Standard Edition watch at the $1,800.00 price, I understand that Roland, Rich and the other guys from RGM have to make a living too. So if you can afford it, go for the LE; either way, this watch to me is a great value ESPECIALLY when comparing it to a lot of the mass produced/ mass marketed timekeepers out there. As always, your mileage may vary...
American watchmaking was once a thriving industry. After the Civil War, the U.S. dominated the world market in inexpensive, accurate watches, a position maintained into the first half of the 20 th century. Starting in the 1950s watch production declined in the country due to a lack of investment and loss of market share to watches produced in Japan and Switzerland. American brands were bought by overseas groups and production relocated to Europe and Asia.
But the industry is experiencing a revival of sorts, led by a few highly talented individuals. However, the challenges they face are many: from learning the craft, to affording the necessary equipment, to finding suppliers and attracting customers.
The most successful American watchmaker is Roland George Murphy, who established the RGM Watch Co. in Mount Joy, Pa., in 1992. Murphy, 57, spent three years training and five years working in product development for Hamilton, an American watch brand now based in Switzerland.
