Custom RGM Model 25 Featuring a Welsh Dragon

The customer who commissioned this watch liked the “Kauai” watch we made a few years ago, so he wanted the same type of construction but with the Welsh Dragon as the centerpiece. As with many custom pieces, we do research and look for inspiration for the art we will create for the customer’s review and subsequent approval.



The watch is an RGM Model 25 with our in-house solid gold winding rotor and stainless-steel case. The dial parts are made of solid silver with blue galvanic plating on the background center, which also has hand-made Guilloche from our straight-line engine. The dial is made of 5 pieces, not including the screws and the name plaques are made of solid rose gold. The dragon is hand-engraved with deep accents.



The end result exceeded our expectations and the customers, it’s truly a stunning and unique timepiece!

RGM introduces the Model 500-WT World-Time

The classically detailed Model 500-WT World-Time watch is designed as a sport watch that is also ideal for travel when using the 24-hour GMT hand and World-Time bezel. To help ensure durability, the watch has two case-back gaskets, a 2mm thick sapphire crystal, and a high-quality screw-down crown. The bezel is deeply engraved, and the letters are ceramic-filled. The 3-dimensional designed ribbing on the case side creates a beautiful aesthetic for this versatile sport watch.

The bi-directional bezel is designed for quick adjustments and has RGM’s in-house made and designed click system.

Like all RGM watches the Model 500-WT World-Time is exclusive and thoughtfully designed.

Click here for webpage

RGM Featured in Europa Star magazine

Link to online article click here

“AN AMERICAN WATCH INDUSTRY REVIVAL IS A MISCONCEPTION”


By Sky Sit

FEBRUARY 2024

When it comes to American watchmaking, Roland G. Murphy’s name undeniably stands out. For decades, his brand has stood as an unwavering pillar in 21st-century horology. Beyond blending master watchmaking with artistic craft, RGM infuses it with a palpable American flair.



The 19th century in American watchmaking reads like a chapter from the Gilded Age, a spectacular era recaptured by HBO’s namesake dramatic series. It was a time that birthed the American system of industrialized manufacturing and precision timekeeping innovations.

However, as the 20th century witnessed the industry wane and its power shift to foreign hands, Roland G. Murphy chose to set up shop among the remnants of a once-vibrant nexus. He anchored himself in rich horological roots, nodding to the gloried, traditional craftsmanship.

Going independent in 1992, Murphy started his eponymous watch company in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. This region was once home to Hamilton, the country’s last major watch manufacturer, and where echoes of America’s horological golden days still linger.


A road less ordinary

Few independent brands can boast over three decades of excellence, with four in-house movements to their name to date. Even fewer hail from across the Atlantic. RGM has not only blazed the trail but also become a fixture in 21st-century American watchmaking.

Murphy’s reputation is widely recognized; pull up any list of notable American brands, and while other names may come and go, his is consistently cited. Beyond those shores, RGM has also made its mark internationally, garnering four GPHG nominations since 2015.

But unlike his Swiss peers, Murphy has had to navigate a barren landscape: “It’s always been harder for me because on this side of the ocean, I’m not surrounded by all of the allied industries that most of the other independents have. They have everything at their fingertips.”

Murphy understood the uphill battle of lacking local manufacturing supplies from his vocational training days in Lancaster and the esteemed halls of WOSTEP in Switzerland in the 1980s, to the years in technical roles with SMH (later the Swatch Group) developing watches for Hamilton.

As fate would have it

Despite maintaining, “my plan was never to get rich; it was just to make a living at what I love doing”, Murphy’s dedication has driven RGM from a personal pursuit to a respectable operation, boasting a full-fledged workshop with an 11-strong team producing under 300 watches a year.

The business has expanded from servicing and restoring, acquiring house specialities such as rose-engine guilloché, to gradually enhancing manufacturing capabilities to craft new and custom watches, incorporating Swiss movements, restored vintage calibres, and complications.

Murphy’s ambitions didn’t stop there. In 2000, he took the plunge to create RGM’s in-house movements. Turn the century back, and the mere concept of American haute horlogerie was virtually non-existent, let alone a future promising prospective patrons. It was a gamble few would have dared take.

Furthermore, Murphy’s progress was hindered by countless manufacturing obstacles that came from treading unchartered territory. Nevertheless, after seven long years of development, RGM finally introduced its first in-house Calibre 801, fit for dual use in pocket and wristwatches.

Extending American history

Thoughtfully designed and engineered for modern utility, this manual-wound time-only movement is a marriage of features inspired by antique pocket watches from bygone hero brands Keystone-Howard and Illinois. It transformed Murphy into America’s proud answer to the world’s elite watchmakers.

RGM has continued to mature, now boasting three additional in-house calibres (Tourbillon, Cal 20, and 801-SW), each crafted with 90-percent American-made parts. “We’re the only company making a tourbillon in North America. We hand-make the cage and build the movement in our workshop,” Murphy proudly states.

Their mechanisms also highlight antique wolf-tooth wheels, seven-tooth winding clicks, and a revamped motor barrel system inspired by classic American railroad pocket watches. Adorned with intricate decorations, these regulating organs serve as heartfelt tributes to the traditions of old-world watchmaking.

“We’ve always tried to take cues from some of the watch brands of the past. We’ve brought forward the qualities I admire because, 100 and 150 years ago, there were a lot of American brands,” Murphy recalls.

The longevity play

Despite mastering his genre, Murphy acknowledges the ongoing challenges of sustaining longevity in the industry, including the disappearance of previous suppliers. “That’s one of the reasons to increase our in-house capabilities in the last decade, reducing reliance on external sources,” Murphy explains.

However, he remains realistic about the allure of the “USA Made” label (which requires a product to be ‘all or virtually all’ made in America), stating, “If I wanted to go out of business, probably one of the quickest ways to do it is to set up an entire jewel manufacturing!”

“You have to pick what makes sense: what make sense for us to manufacture, what we enjoy doing, what’s going to have the most impact, what’s the most important thing to our customers.” Murphy pragmatically notes, “to make watches, you have to sell watches.”



Manoeuvring through this delicate balance, RGM’s catalogue brims with variety, showcasing a diverse range of designs, styles, and techniques across different product levels, with prices spanning from the low 3,000s to high six figures.



“Besides the new and custom watches, we always have the repair side. If one fluctuates, we have the other. And often in the past, when watch sales would dip, the repair side would rise,” Murphy rationalizes.

A test of resolve

That game plan was foolproof until 2020, when the pandemic caused an unprecedented downturn across the board. Just shy of its 30th anniversary, RGM faced a surreal reckoning with its future. “That had never happened,” Murphy recalls, “It was a strange thing to see both go down.”

Fortunately, Murphy’s no-nonsense approach and fiscal prudence paid off. “It’s very much about doing what we can with what we have, staying within our means. And that’s why I’m still here,” Murphy declares, as RGM marches into its 32nd year.


“From the start, our processes had to be authentic. Real hand guilloché, not stamped; genuine enamel, not ersatz finish. Our cases are solid, never plated. We insist on heat-treated blued steel hands, not painted. No faux watchmaking; everything must be real,” Murphy asserts.

This ethos sharply contrasts with an industry swept up in waves of resurgence and remakes. Armed with four decades of hard-earned wisdom, Murphy dismisses a popular notion about returning the American watch industry to the way it was.

“That’s not possible,” he argues. “The world has changed. Large-scale industrial movement manufacturing isn’t going to happen here. Now, the focus is on artisan craft, high quality, and high end in smaller quantities.”

Long live American haute horlogerie

This statement not only addresses the challenging complexities of a fledgling industry but also reinforces RGM’s unique niche within it, staying true to its artistry in a field teeming with new contenders vying for the title of true American watchmakers.

“We’ve taken our own route. While there are other American brands, we are all different,” Murphy reflects with satisfaction: “I’m proud of the path we’ve paved, the watches we’ve made, the reputation we’ve earned, and that today we have more creativity and capability than ever before.”

At 62, Murphy is showing no sign of slowing down. “Even compared to ten years ago, we do so much more than we did. I started before most of the other independents out there, and a lot of those are not doing much anymore.”

With his eyes set on RGM’s future in the annals of watchmaking history, Murphy declares, “We’re still climbing, still improving, and making new things.” His unwavering commitment ensures that the essence of the American craft continues to flourish.

RGM “Tiger in Stone” Stone Marquetry (Mosaic)

The RGM Model 25 watches have an American-made case inspired by our larger Pennsylvania Series watches. The case has ribbed sides, a beautifully contoured bezel, and is 40mm in diameter with curved-down lugs. The Model 25 fits most wrists very comfortably. The case was designed to highlight the dial with its large dial opening.

The Art -

The Tiger on the dial is composed of small pieces of different colored stones. Working with stone requires great skill as each stone has its own specific hardness; the marquetry craftsmen must have just the right touch. For all their beauty, hard stones are extremely fragile and difficult to handle. Each individual piece must be cut thin, shaped, and polished.

The reward for this demanding work is a miniature puzzle; each cut piece will have its own place in the tiny mosaic creating a beautiful piece of art made of stone.

Very few watchmakers offer this rare craft to their clients.

RGM's First Open House in 4 Years - Saturday October 7

RGM Open-House Saturday, October 7th

Location - RGM 801 W Main St. Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Time - Drop in between 9am to 4pm

———

Demonstrations - Hand-Made Engine-Turning (Guilloché), Machining, Watchmaking, and Finishing. You can see how we make our Caliber 801 movement.

Also, during this event, you can order or purchase a watch including the following.

  1. New RGM Watches

  2. Pre-Owned RGM Watches

  3. Traded-in watches from other brands like Omega, Rolex, Hamilton, JLC, IWC, Tag Heuer, and others.


No Reservations needed

Also, we will have watch straps and other items available for purchase. And free watch magazines and auction catalogs.

Custom RGM Model 25 (Bermuda)

RGM Custom Bermuda Watch

The Bermuda watch was ordered by a client who had seen pictures of the Model 25 Kauai watch we made a few years ago and wanted the same watch with Bermuda in place of Kauai. I searched images to see the shape of the island of Bermuda, I realized with its shape another approach would be necessary. Bermuda has many tiny coves and small islands around it so it would not be practical to try and make the watch precisely like the Kauai watch.

RGM Custom Kauai Watch

I thought about different options and after finding an image of a very lovely antique map of Bermuda, I knew making a dial that resembled this map would make a beautiful unique watch. After explaining the idea to our client he agreed and the project was started.

After some artwork was done and ideas exchanged we added a small ruby in a gold setting at the precise location requested by our client. Another idea was to make the chapter ring blue since the map was all in silver.

Antique Map of Bermuda

We photographed the watch with a brown strap and a pink strap which is how it was delivered to our client, the pink strap reminds him of the pink sand of Bermuda.

The end result was another beautiful unique watch that has a special meaning to its owner.

Hodinkee's Watches in the Wild Ep.2 - Featuring Watchmaking in Lancaster, PA

This new episode of (Watches in the Wild) features Lancaster County’s rich history in watchmaking. With visits to the NAWCC watch and clock museum, the original Hamilton watch factory building, us here at RGM Watch Co, and much more.

Watches In The Wild is a new series from HODINKEE exploring the intersection of watches and culture around the world.

INSIDER makes Watch Repair & Restoration Video with RGM

Insider asked us to make a repair and & restoration video with them. We proposed a few watches and they picked a WWII-era Rolex military pocket watch.

The video is intended for a broad audience so it only touches on some of the highlights of a restoration. It’s not a step-by-step documentation of all the needed work, but it does show many of the specialized skills required to do this type of work.

Link to Insider website page, click here.

Tour the NAWCC Museum with RGM's Roland Murphy

RGM’s Roland Murphy will be hosting a free tour of the NAWCC Museum on Saturday, February 11, 2023, at 9:30 am. The NAWCC is the “National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors”. The address is 514 Poplar St. Columbia, PA 17512. No reservation is needed, just show up and mention you are there for Mr. Murphy’s tour.

The last tour Mr. Murphy gave was 4 years ago in 2019.


Mr. Murphy has arranged for the regular museum fee to be waived so this is a totally free event. Of course, we always encourage donations to the museum, which you can do in person if you desire. You might also want to consider becoming a member.

The tour will take about 2 hours or so, and Mr. Murphy will feature items in the museum that he personally likes and feels are significant. There are many items of interest in the museum including clocks, watches, complicated watches, watchmaking tools, machinery, and much more.

Also, after the tour if you have an old watch you would like to show Mr. Murphy he will be glad to look at it and give you his comments about it. Mr. Murphy has many years of experience restoring and collecting vintage and antique watches.

Video tour we made in 2011

What was NEW in 2022, a look back at the year.

We celebrated our 30th anniversary in 2022, it’s hard to believe it has been that long since the beginning of RGM. It has been an incredible journey creating watches of all kinds over the decades, expanding our capabilities, making custom watches, and always looking to the future. We want to thank our clients and followers for supporting the special work we do.

The first new watch we introduced in February of 2022 was the Model 600-B with its beautiful blue dial and raised box-style sapphire crystal.



In April we added to our Model 222-RR (Railroad) collection by introducing the Type 1 Montgomery Classic Marginal Minute Dial. With this new addition, we now have 3 different classic railroad dials available. We are sure this collection will grow even more over the next several years.



Next, we introduced our second Wood Marquetry dialed watch in July, a Model 25 depicting the USS Constitution leaving the British Navy Shipyard at Malta, on November 1, 1804. Nothing like a little history on your wrist.






The fourth and last watch release for RGM’s 30th anniversary year, the Model 25 Yellowstone. 2022 was also the 150th anniversary of Yellowstone National Park and the National Park system. What better way to celebrate both anniversaries than with a beautiful hand-made Cloisonné art dial depicting the wonderful natural American scene?





In February we offered our new RGM Keystone Deployant Clasp, available in 18mm and 20mm buckle sizes, this has been a very popular item.

RGM celebrates Yellowstone National Park’s 150th Anniversary (1872-2022)

RGM Model 25 Depicting Yellowstone National Park in Cloisonné Enamel


The fourth watch release for RGM’s 30th anniversary,

Limited to a maximum of 3 pieces

The Model 25 watches have an American-made case inspired by our larger Pennsylvania series watches. The case has ribbed sides, a beautifully contoured bezel, and is 40mm in diameter, with curved down lugs. The Model 25 fits most wrists very comfortably. The case was designed to highlight the dial with its large dial opening.

The art on the dial is inspired by WPA Poster Art of Yellowstone National Park. This year (2022) is the 150th Anniversary of America’s first National Park - Yellowstone.

The Work Projects Administration (WPA) Poster Collection consists of 907 posters produced from 1936 to 1943 by various branches of the WPA. Of the 2,000 WPA posters known to exist, the Library of Congress's collection of more than 900 is the largest. The posters were designed to publicize exhibits, community activities, theatrical productions, and health and educational programs in seventeen states and the District of Columbia, with the strongest representation from California, Illinois, New York, Ohio, and Pennsylvania. The results of one of the first U.S. Government programs to support the arts, the posters were added to the Library's holdings in the 1940s.

CLOISONNÉ ENAMEL

The hand-made cloisonné dial with its dark brown chapter ring brings out beautiful warm earth tones in this unique rare craft watch.

Cloisonné (‘to partition’) is an enameling technique in which the outline of the design is formed by first adding compartments (“cloisons”  in French) to the metal object by applying silver or gold flat wires placed on their edges.  These remain visible in the finished piece, separating the different compartments of the enamel or inlays. Cloisonné is made with enamel powder made into a paste, which then needs to be fired in a kiln.

The flat gold or silver wire is often no thicker than a human hair, and is hand-bent, and shaped to the design required.  The cloisons give the image an appreciable level of detail, dimension, and beauty.   The dial is created through a series of layering and firing.  With a Cloisonné dial, the colored cells might be filled in and fired in the kiln five or more times before final finishing and polishing.

Very few watchmakers offer this rare craft to their clients.

More about Yellowstone

Signed into law by President Ulysses S. Grant, America's first national park was set aside to preserve and protect the scenery, cultural heritage, wildlife, geologic and ecological systems, and processes in their natural condition for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations.


Link to Webpage Click Here







LINK ————— National Park Website

LINK ————— For information about WPA Poster Art

LINK ————— Ranger Doug WPA Poster Art

The USA Made Bicycle on RGM's Wall

Here at RGM, we appreciate the support we get from everyone who buys a watch from us, it’s the only way we can continue to make watches here in Pennsylvania.   When I started RGM 30 years ago it was my goal to continue to make more and more here in the US, we have continued to do that, expanding our capabilities each year.   We also feel it’s important to support other businesses here, we have suppliers in Europe, but we also have several US suppliers and some local to us here in Pennsylvania.

 

I have always had an interest in bicycles as a hobby, so a few years ago I wanted to build a bicycle using as many US-made components as possible,  I wanted to help support those companies making wonderful bike parts here in the states.  The pictures show the fruit of that labor of love.

 

If you ever visit RGM you can see this work of art hanging on the wall in our workshop as an inspiration of quality.  

 

Below is a list of the main components and the companies that made them. I want to thank all of them for their wonderful work and craftsmanship.

 

RGM Founder,

Roland Murphy

Below are links to the USA manufacturers who made components for this special handmade bicycle.

Frame: ANT Bike (Mike Flannigan)

Fork: ANT Bike (Mike Flannigan)

Stem: ANT Bike (Mike Flannigan)

Wheels: Velocity USA

Hubs: Phil Wood

Spokes: Phil Wood

Freewheel: White Industries

Pedals: White Industries

Headset: Chris King

Saddle: Selle Anatomica

Crank Dust Caps: RGM Watch

Chainring/Crank: Paul Components

Frame Dropouts: Paul Components

Seatpost: Paul Components

Brakes: Paul Components

Brake Levers: Paul Components

The only main components on this bicycle that are not made in the USA are the tires, chain, and hand grips.

RGM's New 151-G and Montague Bikes - A Special Opportunity

There’s a new RGM 151 available soon, it’s a 151-G with a matte green dial and rhodium sword hands.

We have partnered with Montague Bikes so that those who Pre-Order a 151-G and a Montague Paratrooper folding bike from RGM will get the following.

  1. Special price on the watch/bike combo.- $4250.

  2. FKM Florine rubber strap included at no charge.

  3. Our highly rated Keystone Deployant clasp at no charge.

Bikes will ship in September, and watches will ship by November. Offer on stainless-steel 151-G version only. Paratrooper bike available in Medium 18” or Large 20”.

Contact: sales@rgmwatches.com or call 717-653-9799.

RGM Keystone Deployant

The 151-G goes nicely with the Montague Paratrooper, both are rugged and ready for adventure!

We wanted to work with Montague because like RGM they have a unique niche product and are passionate about delivering quality.

The 151 models have an American-made case in either stainless steel or titanium. Any stainless steel version can be polished, brushed, or a combination of both finishes. Titanium cases have a brushed finish only. The thin bezel and large dial are a hallmark of the 151 models, in fact, the dial is larger than watches of a much greater size. The case is thin for its diameter and curves comfortably to the wrist.

Link to 151 page.

More about Montague:

Montague bikes are different, they use standard full-size wheels that millions of bikes use all around the globe. These wheel sizes have been chosen by countless riders and all major bike companies because they offer by far the best stability, rolling resistance, and obstacle clearance. The team at Montague only makes full-size folding bikes and has been doing it better than anyone since 1987.

 Montague starts out with a full-size high-performance bike, and, without compromising performance in any way, reduces the size as small as possible. The result is a bike that rides as well as, or better than, comparably priced un-foldable bikes from large bike brands, but folds down small enough to fit in a car trunk, closet, bus, train, private airplane, or RV.

Montague’s design philosophy is that performance comes first 

Gino Macaluso and RGM's Roland Murphy a Brief History

Gino Macaluso and Roland Murphy 2005/2006

This picture of Gino Macaluso and me (Roland Murphy) was taken back around 2005 or 2006 at a GP Dinner in New York, RGM did the service for Girard-Perregaux for 10 years before the majority of the company was sold after the untimely death of its Chairman and CEO, Gino Macaluso in 2010.  

 

Hans Scholl former VP at Hamilton Watch Co.


I first met Gino back in the late 1980s when I was the technical manager in product development at Hamilton Watch company in Lancaster, PA.  He would come over once a year and meet with my boss Hans Scholl who was the VP of product development, Hans came to Hamilton from Omega a few years earlier.  Gino was at the time the distributor in Italy for Hamilton, Girard-Perregaux, and a few other brands.  Hans and I would work on watch design projects with him developing Hamilton watches for the Italian market.

 

By the mid-1990s Gino had bought the majority of GP and was now in full control of a major brand.  He had a good eye for watch design and brought the brand back into view by developing many new movements and watches, he was also able to get the Ferrari contract established making many models with them.

 Of course, in 1992 I had left Hamilton and was working on my own small brand RGM, now that was 30 years ago, how time flies.

Ron Jackson

 I did not meet Gino again until about 2003 when we started to do the GP service here in North America. Ron Jackson who was the US President for GP at the time contracted RGM to take on the GP Service. I knew Ron from our Hamiton days as we both worked there at the same time. So once again I was working with Gino. The watch industry can be a very small world indeed.

Gino had become a very important figure in the Swiss watch industry since buying the controlling shares of GP in the mid-1990s.  As RGM was growing the service center alliances with brands like GP helped our company grow and gave us a good foundation of work as we developed our own watches. Even today we still do work for several smaller brands, as well as vintage and antique repair and restoration work.  As of the writing of this blog here in 2022 we are busier than ever.

 

Phil Hill Back in the Day

If you look in the background of the picture with Gino and me at the top of this page, you will see a famous race car driver, American Phil Hill former F1 champion. He was one of only two American drivers to ever win the F1 championship, he passed away in 2008. Gino had a successful career in racing also, see below.


Stefan Johannson

In the early 1990s, Gino also made watches for Stefan Johannson former Formula 1 driver, Indycar, and Sports car racing legend. I also made watches for Stefan from the mid-1990s up to about 2009. Cars and watches seem to go hand and hand.

Gino with one of his many cars

 

I hope you found this little watch history interesting. 

 

Regards,

Roland Murphy

 

RGM

 

From Wikipedia

Gino from his Racing Days

Luigi Macaluso, also known as Gino - 9 June 1948 – 27 October 2010, was an Italian rally navigator and manager. Together with Raffaele Pinto, he won the European Rally Championship in 1972 and the Italian Rally Championship with Maurizio Verini in 1974.

 

He was the chairman and CEO of the Sowind Group comprising Girard-Perregaux, GP Manufacture, and JeanRichard

RGM's Sister Brand EOT Watches Collaborates on Fat-Arrow Watch Project

EOT Fat Arrow Watch

In late 2021 Roland Murphy of Equation of Time watches (founder of RGM watches) collaborated with watch photographer and artist Atom Moore to create the first prototype of the Fat Arrow watch. With Roland’s knowledge of these iconic WWII military watches, they worked together to take the art and make it a reality. Honing the details to meld the creative play of the broad arrows on the dial-in Atom’s artwork into a true to size 36mm watch case. A big crown similar to the original was used along with sword-style hands. The railroad minute track is highlighted with luminous dots and bars on the hours. To add to the uniqueness of the physical watch a detail not originally there has been added. All of the larger “fat” arrows are lumed across the dial. Visible through the case-back is the Sellita SW210-1 with Geneva Stripes and radially brushed gears. A limited-edition of 99 pieces will be released later in 2022. Roland Murphy is the founder of RGM watches in operation since 1992 in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania. Equation of Time followed in 1998 to showcase watches designed with input from collectors.

Atom Moore’s Original Art

In 2015 acclaimed watch photographer Atom Moore created his first series of Mashup Watch Art. While working for AnalogShift in NYC he photographed many different variations of the “dirty dozen” British military watches. The use of the broad arrow on the dial was present in all variations of these watches, made by 12 different manufacturers, to indicate this was government property and for non-civilian use. A simple three lines were used to create the broad arrows but the variation between each one was the detail that inspired Atom. The title for the original art piece “Fat Arrow” is based on the more robust arrow coined by collectors of these World War II-era timekeepers. Atom has created dozens of Mashup watch art pieces since 2015 and has had several exhibitions of his signature metal prints. Most recently at the NAWCC The National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Museum in Columbia, PA, and the Watches of Switzerland Boutique in SoHo NYC.


Find more of Atom Moore’s photography and prints at www.AtomMoore.com and more about Equation of Time watches at www.Equationoftime.com.

RGM Model 25 - USS Constitution Leaving Malta in 1804 in Wood Marquetry

RGM Model 25 - USS Constitution Leaving Malta in 1804 in Wood Marquetry


The third watch release for our 30th anniversary

The second RGM watch with a hand-made wood marquetry dial.

Limited to a maximum of 3 pieces

The Model 25 watches have an American-made case inspired by our larger Pennsylvania series watches. The case has ribbed sides, a beautifully contoured bezel, and is 40mm in diameter, with curved down lugs. The Model 25 fits most wrists very comfortably. The case was designed to highlight the dial with its large dial opening.

The art on the dial depicts the USS Constitution leaving the British Navy Shipyard at Malta, on November 1, 1804. The art features the departure of the USS Constitution following repairs at the Naval Dockyard during the Tripolitan war when the ship was granted permission by the Royal Navy to use Malta as a base. The art also captures the landmarks of the Grand Harbour and the profile of the later-to-be-named "Old Ironsides”. The dial beautifully denotes the long Naval association between Malta, the United States, and Great Britain.

Wood Marquetry is a decorative technique traditionally used on furniture, smaller wooden objects, and pictorial panels. Marquetry has its origins in Ancient Greece, where wooden objects were inlaid with different materials. The craft is a recent arrival in the watchmaking world which requires this work to be done on a miniature scale. When creating a dial with this technique, the marquetry-maker uses different woods in a wide variety of colors, then wood is cut and assembled according to the chosen design. This is a very demanding craft and requires a very talented artist.

Very few watchmakers offer this rare craft to their clients.

 

New - Model 222-RR Classic Montgomery

The second watch release for our 30th Anniversary year.

We have added another Railroad dial to the Model 222-RR series

Type 1 - Montgomery (Classic Marginal Minute Dial)


Model 222-RR (Railroad)

Inspired by America's Great Railroad Watches from the Past

The Model 222-RR is a modern wristwatch with a vintage heart, featuring a Hamilton 10-sized pocket watch movement. RGM was the first to use these wonderful classic movements in a wristwatch.  Our vintage Hamilton movements are rebuilt using parts that are in optimum condition, including a new mainspring made for this movement. We flat polish the steel parts by hand on a tin block to better-than-original condition. The entire process of careful reassembly to precise adjustment of the movement is managed by one watchmaker. The grade 921 movement has 21 jewels and was made in large quantities; the grade 923 has 23 jewels and is rare, with less than 4,000 movements manufactured.

The Grand Feu Real Enamel dial is modeled after American railroad watches from the past. The blued-steel hands remain true to the classic form and the 1:30 crown position pays homage to early 20th century timepieces. It’s also very natural to read the time when worn on the left wrist.

New Dial Version - Type I - CLASSIC MONTGOMERY

Henry S. Montgomery was the General Watch & Clock Inspector of the AT&SF Railroad from 1896 to 1923. Mr. Montgomery patented his first marginal minute safety dial design Type I around 1906. This is the design that has inspired the new version of RGM’s Model 222-RR watch.

A Montgomery dial displays minutes 1-60 along the outer edge, with every fifth number in red. Some collectors say that a "true" Montgomery dial must have an hour number 6 visible inside the seconds’ register. Dials approved for use on the railroads needed to be functional and readable, even under adverse conditions. Most American watch companies used Montgomery dials on many of their railroad-grade watches.

Why is the crown at the 1:30 position?

During the Transitional Period from the early 1900s into the 1920s, some wristwatches appeared with the winding crown in this less common position on the wristwatch case. Some watch companies converted movements and dials that were originally designed for a pocket or pendant watch into a wristwatch by making the crown position on the wristwatch case at 1:30 or 2:00 O’clock.

Celebrating the unique look of those early wristwatches is the inspiration behind the RGM Model 222-RR. It also keeps the orientation of the sub-second in line with the 12 O’clock position thus preserving the original design of the railroad-style dial. And it’s just fun!

Link to Webpage Click Here