RGM Model 222-RR - Why is the Crown and Dial Offset?

Modern RGM Model 222-RR (Boxcar Dial)

Our Model 222-RR with the crown and dial offset is often a topic of conversation. Many often wonder where the idea came from and why we made it this way. First, we wanted to keep the orientation of the 12 in line with the sub-second at 6 o'clock. This keeps the classic layout of the railroad-road-inspired dials for this model.

We were also inspired by the WW1-era trench watches, as watch companies transitioned to more wristwatches they often took a ladies’ pendent movement and dial and cased them in a new wristwatch case, many of which had the offset dial and crown.

Our inspiration was not the VC 1921 as some people thought, in fact, VC was inspired by the same WW1-era watches including some of their own, and other watches from that time. The general offset layout was used by many watch companies on both sides of the ocean.

Some wonder if the Model 222-RR is a driver’s watch, which is also not the case, in fact, most drivers watches are designed to be worn on the side of the wrist.

So that’s why the Model 222-RR watches have an offset dial and crown.

Click here for RGM Model 222-RR Watches

WWI Waltham - photo LRF antique watches

WWI Elgin - photo LRF antique watches

Modern VC 1921

Vintage VC

Modern RGM Model 222-RR Watches

WWI Elgin - photo LRF antique watches

WWI Elgin - photo LRF antique watches

WWI Elgin - photo LRF antique watches

RGM Model 222-RR (Montgomery Type 1 Dial)

Left handed and Right handed version




Share

The New RGM Model 801/40 "Our Smaller 40mm 801"

RGM Model 801/40-CE 40mm case

 

The classic architecture and good looks of RGM’s classic 801

in a more svelte case size

 

 

Model 801/40-CE “Classic Enamel” version

RGM’s time-honored 801 series watches look to the grand past of watchmaking for inspiration and base their present not on only the magnificent visuals of America’s bygone heyday of watchmaking, but also various techniques for longevity, precision, and aesthetics. Pennsylvania-based RGM specializes in blending old-world decorative arts with expert modern production capabilities to produce reliable yet beautiful and unique timepieces that radiate a decided feel for America’s horological history.

 

And now this luxurious example of the ever-evolving art of watchmaking is available in a 40.3 mm diameter, the smallest possible to house the 801 movement. Model 801/40 can comfortably and elegantly fit more wrists than ever.

 

RGM Model 801/40: Genuine enamel dial

 

The proportions and details of this RGM design are aesthetic, easy to read, and historically inclined, with the U.S. brand creating a timeless layout on a multilevel “double-sunk” grand feu enamel dial that could just as well have belonged to a vintage pocket watch. The mixture of Arabic numerals marking the minutes and the small seconds and elegant Roman numerals depicting the hours is a classically eye-catching combination. The numerals are joined by a minute track dotted with tiny pyramid-shaped marks for the five-minute intervals, while the small seconds dial follows on with a subtle railroad track.

 

The central dial features a simple, classic brand logo that favors a vintage-style text form additionally denoting the company’s place of origin. The classically beautiful blued-steel hands are Breguet style, for many aficionados – as well as for RGM founder Roland Murphy – the ultimate hand shape.

 

The making of a grand feu enamel dial of this caliber is a long process steeped in tradition. As the dial has three components – the outer ring, the inset central panel, and the doubly inset small seconds subdial (hence the “double-sunk” description) – each must be enameled individually. Each of these components must be independently fired numerous times as the enamel slowly builds up to create the incredible depth that the final product displays. Grand feu is one of the most difficult enameling processes thanks to the many possibilities for something to go wrong in the multiple firing steps: each time a section is fired, a new opportunity for dust, a bubble, or cracking is presented, which could lead to a warped surface.

 

To achieve the perfection seen here, a master enameller carefully works the dial using the prescribed process to obtain crisp, pure white enamel with exquisite depth and sophisticated translucency that cannot be created using any other method. While RGM has extensive experience with guilloche and dial-making in-house, these grand feu enamel dials are produced by a master of the craft in Switzerland.

 

RGM Model 801/40: Case and Crystal

 

The style of model 801/40’s 40.3 x 9.3 mm stainless-steel case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches, and the box-style sapphire crystal completes the classic look and contributes to the slim design aesthetic. Turning the watch over, the view from the back has watch enthusiasts catching their breath as all the vintage-style beauty from the front is more than mirrored in Caliber 801, which dominates the rear view of this special timepiece.

 

RGM Caliber 801

 

Under the extraordinary dial is RGM’s original in-house movement: Caliber 801 exemplifies all the qualities that RGM holds dear. Inspired by America’s great watchmaking history, this classic movement displays the traditions of America’s greatest manufacturers. Its classic bridge shapes are strongly reminiscent of Keystone-Howard Watch Company’s Edward Howard model. This was a historical watch company in operation from 1902 through 1930 in Waltham, Massachusetts. Caliber 801’s unique winding click was inspired by that found within the Illinois Bunn Special, an American-invented motor barrel the likes of which was only used in highest-grade railroad watches. Its design is beneficial to the quality of the movement as it transmits energy efficiently by reducing friction.

 

The finely finished Caliber 801 was conceived from the start to be customized to the client's wishes in terms of decoration, plating, and other elements. A point of pride for both RGM and its clients, the Caliber 801 is the first serial mechanical watch movement manufactured in the United States since 1969 when Hamilton stopped producing its Caliber 992 B.

 

The classic American architecture is enough to evoke emotion in anyone even remotely interested in watches. Many of the components of Caliber 801 are also made right in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, USA, and finished by hand; 90 % of this movement is made in the USA.

 

This movement displays RGM’s masterful command of classic watchmaking from an American perspective.

 

Variations and Options

 

Since RGM makes fewer than 300 timepieces annually, customization is one of the great services this American watchmaker can offer. Naturally, other dial and hand versions can be ordered for this watch. It can also feature dials in the style of many existing watches in RGM’s repertoire: the 801/40-COE “Corps of Engineers” offers a World War I-style enamel dial with sweep seconds, while the 801/40-EE displays a unique combination of enamel dial with RGM’s in-house engine-turning applied directly to the movement and showing through from the front. The 801/40-E model has a fully handmade engine-turned dial produced in-house at RGM in Pennsylvania.

 

“We are also happy to make custom versions of this new watch as we do with our other models,” says Murphy of the new 801/40. RGM is known for its custom watches as it can alter not only the appearance of a watch according to a customer’s wishes, but also the movement. RGM offers technical options such as precision hacking seconds (which stops the second hand when the crown is pulled out for precise setting), beautiful wolf’s teeth winding wheels, custom engraving on the balance bridge, RGM’s own motor barrel system, a spring barrel design inspired by older pocket watch movements, and a swan-neck regulator in place of an index.

 

The 801 model watches have thus far been available in 43.3 mm (Pennsylvania series) and 42 mm. The brand-new model 801/40 is the smallest available at 40.3mm.

Model 810/40 page click here

Share

A Custom Hand Engraved Case Back can be very Special - "Luna"

We enjoyed making this watch for our client, with his beloved dog, Luna, hand-engraved on the case-back. It started with a picture and a few requests from the client, and then we worked on a layout and the technique to be used.

We thank our client “J” for trusting us with this personal request and our hand engraver Phil for doing a great job.

Here you can see some of the steps.

Share

RGM Custom Wood Marquetry - Sedona Arizona Landscape

Castillo de San Marcos

When we introduced art dials in 2019, one of the first watches had a wood marquetry dial. Offering real hand-craft techniques to our clients has always been important to us here at RGM.

The first watch had a historic scene of the Castillo de San Marcos in Saint Augustine, FL.



USS Constitution


The second watch also had a historic scene depicting the USS Constitution Leaving Malta in 1804.


Sedona Arizona

Our third wood marquetry watch features a scene from Sedona, Arizona. Our client from South Korea had visited the area and wanted a custom watch depicting the unique landscape. A wood dial is the perfect medium to capture the reds, tans, and browns of the natural landscape.

Share

RGM Watch Company Featured in a New Video

We are happy to share this video which features our watchmaking and how we make some of the parts that go into our RGM watches.

This video is part of a new series called “Great Works” from the Daily Mail.

Share

William Penn Reissue - Limited Availability of 15

RGM Model 121/122-D William Penn Reissue

Back in 1999-2000, we introduced the first William Penn models. There were three versions back then: one with moon-phase, one with date, and another with a sub-second.  The case design was taken from our original model 102J jumping hour watch, the Penn version is a bit larger.

We have parts remaining to make about 15 more date models; only new Guilloché dials need to be made.

The watch is named after the founder of Pennsylvania, William Penn.

Artwork for new 18K solid gold silvered Dial



We are now making these watches available for pre-order. Delivery Feb 2025


Click here for more details: https://www.rgmwatches.com/model-122d-reissue

We have made a small change on the dial as you will see on the artwork, we flipped the numbers on the power-reserve and the bottom half of the date ring.

Share

Open-House at RGM Saturday, Oct 5 - Presentation at NAWCC Friday, Oct 4

RGM Open-House Saturday, October 5th

Location - RGM 801 W Main St. Mount Joy, PA 17552.

Time & Date - Drop-in between 9am and 3pm on Oct 5th

———

Demonstrations - Engine-Turning (Guilloché) by Hand, Machining, Watchmaking, and Finishing. You can see how we make our watches.

Also, during this event, you can view, order, or purchase a watch including the following.

RGM Watch Co

  1. New RGM Watches

  2. Pre-Owned RGM Watches

  3. Traded-in watches from other brands like Omega, Rolex, Hamilton, JLC, IWC, Tag Heuer, etc..


    No Reservations needed




Free Presentation Oct 4th:

The day before at 2pm on Oct 4th, RGM’s Roland Murphy will give the slide presentation “RGM Watch Co. Inspirations from America’s Great Watchmaking Past” at the NAWCC Museum

NAWCC Museum

Locations:

Oct 4th at 2pm, NAWCC Museum 514 Poplar St, Columbia, PA

Oct 5th from 9am to 3pm, RGM 801 W Main St. Mount Joy, PA


Share

RGM Model 25 "Birds of America" (Glossy Ibis)

The RGM Model 25 “Birds of America” (Glossy Ibis) is uniquely an American theme captured in miniature hand-painting on mother of pearl..

 

RGM founder Roland Murphy’s personal hobbies include wildlife photography, and he particularly loves to capture birds on camera. Using his experienced eye, he selected the Glossy Ibis from the famed Audubon plates as the motif for this unusually appealing dial. “I love the Birds of America images and the story of how they came about,” he says. The Birds of America is a set of prints by famed naturalist and painter John James Audubon published between 1827 and 1838; the 435 original prints made from engraved plates depict a wide assortment of North American bird species, many at that time perceived as rare. “Looking through Audubon’s Birds of America original images I narrowed it down to about five. After reviewing them, I thought the ‘Glossy Ibis’ would make a great first watch under the umbrella of the Birds of America theme,” Murphy explains the choice. The Glossy Ibis, today a common bird, was first documented in the New World in 1817.

 

Audubon Plate of Glossy Ibis

The artwork as seen on the watch dial is based on the original Audubon print, but Murphy and his team arranged the image to fit the round format of the dial. The modified artwork was then miniature-painted by hand onto a mother-of-pearl background by famed French artisan

Miniature painting is an art form that requires myriad patience and training. Creating the dial begins with the artist sketching the motif lightly onto the mother-of-pearl with a pencil. Once satisfied with the outlines, she uses a delicate brush containing just one or two natural hairs to carefully apply paint to the motif, repeating this process about 20 times and firing the fragile mother-of-pearl dial in an oven heated to 90°C in between each application so that it thoroughly dries.

 

The modified movement powering this horological work of art is based on the sturdy and reliable ETA 2892-A2, though RGM has replaced the automatic winding system and modified the mainspring barrel to increase the power reserve to a full 53-56 hours. RGM also fits its own in-house gold winding rotor to the movement, which is decorated with perlage, côtes de Genève, and a rhodium-plated finish.

 

The 40 x 10.4 mm stainless steel case housing this ornithological masterpiece is made right in Pennsylvania using American steel and features a classically ribbed case band. RGM designed the case to shine a spotlight on the beauty of the dial with its large opening and thin, contoured bezel. The time is shown using blued-steel hands that do not disturb the beauty of the handcrafted bird.

John James Audubon Center at Mill Grove

 

While the miniature painting done entirely by hand makes the dial unique by default, this watch is not a unique piece and will be replicated on demand. Alternatively, clients may request their own miniature-painted watches using other bird motifs from the Audubon plates or other modifications.

 


Link to Model 25 Page - Click Here

“Birds of America” Link to Audubon Website

Glossy Ibis in the Wild








Share

Mr. Antoine Simonin Passed Away this Week. "Watchmaker and Instructor"

Antoine Simonin on the right, Roland Murphy center - 1986

Antoine Simonin -

Mr. Simonin was my watchmaking instructor at WOSTEP back in the mid-1980s.

He was at WOSTEP for 27 years “Watchmakers of Switzerland Training Educational Program”

Mr. Simonin was not only a school principal, but also an incredible mentor, guide, teacher, and watchmaker. He was also a watchbook publisher, thus sharing his passion and knowledge with a wider audience.

Simonin Editions - www.booksimonin.ch/home.php

Photo credit: Quill & Pad - 2020

The last time I was able to visit with him was in 2016; see these blog posts for some interesting stories.

Blog post from 2015 click here.

Blog post from 2017 click here

Many well-known watchmakers benefited from Mr. Simonin’s training, giving them, including me, a great start to a fine career.

He will be missed by many.

Our Condolences to the Simonin Family

Antoine Simonin on the left, Roland Murphy on the right - 2016

Share

Custom RGM Model 25 Featuring a Welsh Dragon

The customer who commissioned this watch liked the “Kauai” watch we made a few years ago, so he wanted the same type of construction but with the Welsh Dragon as the centerpiece. As with many custom pieces, we do research and look for inspiration for the art we will create for the customer’s review and subsequent approval.



The watch is an RGM Model 25 with our in-house solid gold winding rotor and stainless-steel case. The dial parts are made of solid silver with blue galvanic plating on the background center, which also has hand-made Guilloche from our straight-line engine. The dial is made of 5 pieces, not including the screws and the name plaques are made of solid rose gold. The dragon is hand-engraved with deep accents.



The end result exceeded our expectations and the customers, it’s truly a stunning and unique timepiece!

Share

RGM introduces the Model 500-WT World-Time

The classically detailed Model 500-WT World-Time watch is designed as a sport watch that is also ideal for travel when using the 24-hour GMT hand and World-Time bezel. To help ensure durability, the watch has two case-back gaskets, a 2mm thick sapphire crystal, and a high-quality screw-down crown. The bezel is deeply engraved, and the letters are ceramic-filled. The 3-dimensional designed ribbing on the case side creates a beautiful aesthetic for this versatile sport watch.

The bi-directional bezel is designed for quick adjustments and has RGM’s in-house made and designed click system.

Like all RGM watches the Model 500-WT World-Time is exclusive and thoughtfully designed.

Click here for webpage

Share

RGM Featured in Europa Star magazine

Link to online article click here

“AN AMERICAN WATCH INDUSTRY REVIVAL IS A MISCONCEPTION”


By Sky Sit

FEBRUARY 2024

When it comes to American watchmaking, Roland G. Murphy’s name undeniably stands out. For decades, his brand has stood as an unwavering pillar in 21st-century horology. Beyond blending master watchmaking with artistic craft, RGM infuses it with a palpable American flair.



The 19th century in American watchmaking reads like a chapter from the Gilded Age, a spectacular era recaptured by HBO’s namesake dramatic series. It was a time that birthed the American system of industrialized manufacturing and precision timekeeping innovations.

However, as the 20th century witnessed the industry wane and its power shift to foreign hands, Roland G. Murphy chose to set up shop among the remnants of a once-vibrant nexus. He anchored himself in rich horological roots, nodding to the gloried, traditional craftsmanship.

Going independent in 1992, Murphy started his eponymous watch company in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. This region was once home to Hamilton, the country’s last major watch manufacturer, and where echoes of America’s horological golden days still linger.


A road less ordinary

Few independent brands can boast over three decades of excellence, with four in-house movements to their name to date. Even fewer hail from across the Atlantic. RGM has not only blazed the trail but also become a fixture in 21st-century American watchmaking.

Murphy’s reputation is widely recognized; pull up any list of notable American brands, and while other names may come and go, his is consistently cited. Beyond those shores, RGM has also made its mark internationally, garnering four GPHG nominations since 2015.

But unlike his Swiss peers, Murphy has had to navigate a barren landscape: “It’s always been harder for me because on this side of the ocean, I’m not surrounded by all of the allied industries that most of the other independents have. They have everything at their fingertips.”

Murphy understood the uphill battle of lacking local manufacturing supplies from his vocational training days in Lancaster and the esteemed halls of WOSTEP in Switzerland in the 1980s, to the years in technical roles with SMH (later the Swatch Group) developing watches for Hamilton.

As fate would have it

Despite maintaining, “my plan was never to get rich; it was just to make a living at what I love doing”, Murphy’s dedication has driven RGM from a personal pursuit to a respectable operation, boasting a full-fledged workshop with an 11-strong team producing under 300 watches a year.

The business has expanded from servicing and restoring, acquiring house specialities such as rose-engine guilloché, to gradually enhancing manufacturing capabilities to craft new and custom watches, incorporating Swiss movements, restored vintage calibres, and complications.

Murphy’s ambitions didn’t stop there. In 2000, he took the plunge to create RGM’s in-house movements. Turn the century back, and the mere concept of American haute horlogerie was virtually non-existent, let alone a future promising prospective patrons. It was a gamble few would have dared take.

Furthermore, Murphy’s progress was hindered by countless manufacturing obstacles that came from treading unchartered territory. Nevertheless, after seven long years of development, RGM finally introduced its first in-house Calibre 801, fit for dual use in pocket and wristwatches.

Extending American history

Thoughtfully designed and engineered for modern utility, this manual-wound time-only movement is a marriage of features inspired by antique pocket watches from bygone hero brands Keystone-Howard and Illinois. It transformed Murphy into America’s proud answer to the world’s elite watchmakers.

RGM has continued to mature, now boasting three additional in-house calibres (Tourbillon, Cal 20, and 801-SW), each crafted with 90-percent American-made parts. “We’re the only company making a tourbillon in North America. We hand-make the cage and build the movement in our workshop,” Murphy proudly states.

Their mechanisms also highlight antique wolf-tooth wheels, seven-tooth winding clicks, and a revamped motor barrel system inspired by classic American railroad pocket watches. Adorned with intricate decorations, these regulating organs serve as heartfelt tributes to the traditions of old-world watchmaking.

“We’ve always tried to take cues from some of the watch brands of the past. We’ve brought forward the qualities I admire because, 100 and 150 years ago, there were a lot of American brands,” Murphy recalls.

The longevity play

Despite mastering his genre, Murphy acknowledges the ongoing challenges of sustaining longevity in the industry, including the disappearance of previous suppliers. “That’s one of the reasons to increase our in-house capabilities in the last decade, reducing reliance on external sources,” Murphy explains.

However, he remains realistic about the allure of the “USA Made” label (which requires a product to be ‘all or virtually all’ made in America), stating, “If I wanted to go out of business, probably one of the quickest ways to do it is to set up an entire jewel manufacturing!”

“You have to pick what makes sense: what make sense for us to manufacture, what we enjoy doing, what’s going to have the most impact, what’s the most important thing to our customers.” Murphy pragmatically notes, “to make watches, you have to sell watches.”



Manoeuvring through this delicate balance, RGM’s catalogue brims with variety, showcasing a diverse range of designs, styles, and techniques across different product levels, with prices spanning from the low 3,000s to high six figures.



“Besides the new and custom watches, we always have the repair side. If one fluctuates, we have the other. And often in the past, when watch sales would dip, the repair side would rise,” Murphy rationalizes.

A test of resolve

That game plan was foolproof until 2020, when the pandemic caused an unprecedented downturn across the board. Just shy of its 30th anniversary, RGM faced a surreal reckoning with its future. “That had never happened,” Murphy recalls, “It was a strange thing to see both go down.”

Fortunately, Murphy’s no-nonsense approach and fiscal prudence paid off. “It’s very much about doing what we can with what we have, staying within our means. And that’s why I’m still here,” Murphy declares, as RGM marches into its 32nd year.


“From the start, our processes had to be authentic. Real hand guilloché, not stamped; genuine enamel, not ersatz finish. Our cases are solid, never plated. We insist on heat-treated blued steel hands, not painted. No faux watchmaking; everything must be real,” Murphy asserts.

This ethos sharply contrasts with an industry swept up in waves of resurgence and remakes. Armed with four decades of hard-earned wisdom, Murphy dismisses a popular notion about returning the American watch industry to the way it was.

“That’s not possible,” he argues. “The world has changed. Large-scale industrial movement manufacturing isn’t going to happen here. Now, the focus is on artisan craft, high quality, and high end in smaller quantities.”

Long live American haute horlogerie

This statement not only addresses the challenging complexities of a fledgling industry but also reinforces RGM’s unique niche within it, staying true to its artistry in a field teeming with new contenders vying for the title of true American watchmakers.

“We’ve taken our own route. While there are other American brands, we are all different,” Murphy reflects with satisfaction: “I’m proud of the path we’ve paved, the watches we’ve made, the reputation we’ve earned, and that today we have more creativity and capability than ever before.”

At 62, Murphy is showing no sign of slowing down. “Even compared to ten years ago, we do so much more than we did. I started before most of the other independents out there, and a lot of those are not doing much anymore.”

With his eyes set on RGM’s future in the annals of watchmaking history, Murphy declares, “We’re still climbing, still improving, and making new things.” His unwavering commitment ensures that the essence of the American craft continues to flourish.

Share

RGM “Tiger in Stone” Stone Marquetry (Mosaic)

The RGM Model 25 watches have an American-made case inspired by our larger Pennsylvania Series watches. The case has ribbed sides, a beautifully contoured bezel, and is 40mm in diameter with curved-down lugs. The Model 25 fits most wrists very comfortably. The case was designed to highlight the dial with its large dial opening.

The Art -

The Tiger on the dial is composed of small pieces of different colored stones. Working with stone requires great skill as each stone has its own specific hardness; the marquetry craftsmen must have just the right touch. For all their beauty, hard stones are extremely fragile and difficult to handle. Each individual piece must be cut thin, shaped, and polished.

The reward for this demanding work is a miniature puzzle; each cut piece will have its own place in the tiny mosaic creating a beautiful piece of art made of stone.

Very few watchmakers offer this rare craft to their clients.

Share