Optional Rhodium Sword Hands for 151-P and 151-B

The Rhodium sword hands are the standard hands on the new 151-PR model.  We had request from three different clients to put these sword hands on the 151-B, so we decided to make it an official option.

The hands work very well with the dial, and are a beautiful match.  One more way to make your watch the way you want it.

Regards,

Roland

Guilloché "Engine-Turning" and RGM Go Hand and Hand!

Ever since I first read the chapter on Engine-Turning in George Daniels book "Watchmaking" I was fascinated and knew I had to pursue this wonderful old world craft.  I am happy to say the journey was a successful one.  Roland

What is Guilloché (Engine-Turning)?

A centuries-old craft that involves the use of antique machines to engrave delicate patterns on metal watch components. The fruits of this craft, very nearly a lost art, can be found adorning all manner of watch parts including cases, dials and movements. Engine turning is the act of cutting geometric patterns in a rotating metal surface with a stationary cutting tool called a rose engine. A similar type of engraving can be done with a straight-line engine, which is used for such patterns cut either vertically or horizontally.

Here at RGM we also design watch straps. Need a custom strap?

We have worked with the best strap manufactures in the world for years here at RGM.  We have designed many straps over the years for our watches and custom straps for individuals. 

If you need a special strap for any watch RGM or other brand, we can help with the design, leather choices, lining, padding, and picking the best manufacture based on whats important to you.  And if you visit RGM we can show you the many leather samples we have so you can truly make a strap that is just for you.

If you need a custom strap fast we can help there also, one of the companies we work with can make a custom strap in less then 2 weeks. 

We have straps made in the USA, France, and Austria.

Black Dial RGM Model 455 Classic Chronograph

This past weekend was the Reading Airshow here in Pennsylvania, I took the opportunity to take a few RGM watches to get some pictures.   I think the black dial 455 looks great in this vintage Stinson aircraft.

I love watches and airplanes!

Roland   

RGM 801 Movement with Optional Motor Barrel and Custom Winding Wheel

When we first brought back the Motor Barrel system from Americas watchmaking past a few years ago we reintroduced it in our Caliber 20 movement, the system reduces friction and wear. You can read more about it on the caliber 20 page with this LINK.

In 2015 we added the Motor Barrel system as an option for 801 movements and have made several 801's over the last months with it. The RGM client who owns this watch wanted a custom winding wheel engraving, so we created artwork so he could see what he was getting before the part was made. We engraved the Motor Barrel wording and my signature on the ratchet wheel as seen in the picture.

 

We are very much about custom here at RGM. There are very few companies that will customize a watch in the world, and even fewer who can customize the movement.

RGM

RGM Model 400 "Doctors Chronograph"

This special version of the model 400 chronograph has a pulsimeter scale. Many watches from the past with this scale were used by medical professionals like nurses and doctors, thus we refer to it as the "Doctors Chronograph"  It is only available in the black dial version as an option.  The pulsimeter replaces the tachymeter or tachometer scale which is what we normally have on this model.

How a Pulsimeter Chronograph works:

The pulsimeter scale shows at a glance the number of pulse beats per minute. The observer releases the chronograph second hand when starting to count the beats of the pulse and stops at the 30th, the 20th, or the 15th beat according to the basis of calibration indicated on the dial. With the RGM model 400 it would be the 30th beat.  The chronograph second hand shows at a glance the number of pulse beats per minute according to where it is stopped on the pulsimeter scale.

 

Custom RGM Classic Chronograph Model 455 with Enamel dial

Our model 455 Classic Chronographs have that 1940's look already, but this custom version with a real glass enamel dial really takes you back to another time.  I was very happy when the customer wanted to make this watch, it gave me the opportunity to work on a very traditional look that is right up my alley. 

I used hands from 3 different RGM models to get the correct look, that's an advantage of being in business for 24 years, we  have many parts to search thru.

You can read more about how enamel dials are made under our model PS-801-BB, or 801-COE.

The RGM Model 140 "Erisman" the Forgotten Watch

About 16 years ago a client commissioned a special custom RGM watch, it was to be square with a manual wound movement, solid rose gold, and with a solid silver Engine-Turned dial. 

I had an idea of making it look like many of the wonderful designs from the 40's and 50's, I pitched the design to the client and he loved it.  He gave another watch in trade as his deposit and the work began to create this special watch.

I decided to make three cases to help keep the cost down per watch, when the cases were done I worked with the client to have a special engraving done on the back of his watch. When the watch was completed he never responded after many attempts over a few years.  So I finished up the two remaining watches that were not engraved, and over time sold them.

To my surprise 8 years later I received a letter from the old client saying that I owed him his deposit because he never received his watch.   I kindly sent him a letter reminding him of the facts and that we still had his watch and he could still complete the purchase with some interest added, and the offer was open for 30 days.  That was about 8 years ago from now and once again he disappeared. 

Over time I was glad to still have this rare watch even if it was engraved, it is a beautiful watch that I will keep for the RGM collection.  And who knows it might inspire a remake one day!

One of the other watches came in for service and needed a crystal, the crystal is very complicated to make in sapphire so I sent a drawing to 7 companies and only two could do it. I also needed a crystal for the one we have, the original crystal was very fragile and broke if hit just right.   The new crystal fits perfectly!

I hope you enjoyed this little dive into RGM's history.

Roland

RGM Makes Watch for Baseball's Washington Nationals Owner

When we first introduced the RGM PS-801-BB Baseball in Enamel watch we had an unveiling at the NAWCC watch and clock museum in Columbia PA.   The NAWCC did an article on the RGM watch and the Antique Waltham watch that inspired it, they appeared on the cover of their magazine the "Bulletin", all members of the NAWCC receive this publication. It was entitled "Baseball in Enamel: RGM Celebrates the American Pastime and Creates an American Masterpiece" by Adam R. Harris

Someone associated with the Lerner company is a member of the NAWCC and received a copy of their publication with the Baseball watches on the cover.  It was decided that they would order a custom version for Mr. Lerner the owner of the company, and the owner of the Major League Baseball Washington Nationals club. We were very pleased a MLB owner would have one of our very special Baseball watches.

Since this would be custom for Mr. Lerner we wanted to be sure it had the Nationals logo on the watch.  The logo is on the dial at 12, and engraved on the balance bridge on the movement.  They also wanted his initials on the watch, so we recommend the dial since it would be custom with the logo on it.

Two other RGM PS-801-BB watches are on Minor league baseball owners arms but this was the first that would o the a MLB owner.  The watch was a limited edition of 10 in Stainless which is sold out, we can make 5 in gold or 3 in platinum.

The RGM Baseball watch turned out to be one of my favorite RGM's. 

Roland

Click here - Article from NAWCC

Clcik here - NAWCC page

 

Two Price Points For RGM 151-COE, With Two Movement Options

The new 151-COE can be had with an out of production Swiss movement that has a solid 14K gold RGM made winding rotor, or with our RGM top grade Swiss ETA 2892-A2 movement.  Everything else is the same, real glass enamel dial, blued steel hands, and American case.  Like many other RGM watches you have choices! 

Prices for Stainless Steel versions:

Movement with Gold Rotor $6950.

ETA movement version $4950.

New Bezel and Crown option for the Model 400 Chronographs

We have added an optional bezel that is polished and has a different design, it gives the model 400 chronographs a little dresser look.  You can also get an optional Onion crown to go along with the polished bezel if you desire.

 

 

 

 

Of course many people prefer the standard bezel and crown as it gives the watch a more technical look.

 

We are all about options here at RGM!

NEW RGM MODEL: 151-COE Corps of Engineers

Following up on the success of our 801-COE we decided to introduce a smaller automatic version of the Corps of Engineers design.  A perfect complement to its bigger brother, the 151-COE has many of the same design features that made the 801-COE so great, like the real glass Grand Feu enamel dial and classic style blued steel hands.   The 151-COE also has a beautiful RGM-made solid gold rotor specifically designed for this model.  

Click Here For More Information

 

The inspiration:

When the United States joined “The Great War” in April 1917, British and French governments made the arrival of American engineers their top priority. By the end of August 1917, nine newly organized engineer railway regiments, recruited largely from the nation’s private railway workers, had arrived in France. Since the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers had adopted the General Railroad Timepiece Standards of 1893, they brought with them about 1,000 American-made Hamilton railroad watches that met those standards. Each watch incorporated several technical features to ensure easy winding, legibility and accuracy to within 30 seconds a week. In an effort to reduce reliance on transAtlantic shipping routes, the AEF Quartermaster Corps chose to procure more watches from within Europe, ordering from several Swiss companies. 

I have always loved shaped movements!

When we worked on the design of the Caliber 20 movement I knew I wanted something very special.  I have always loved shaped movements from the first time as a young watchmaker I restored a few classic ones.   First was the Hamilton 980, 982, and the best of the three the 982M.

They are wonderful little barrel shaped movements and the early 982M's had a real solid gold medallion set into the bridge.  Of course I have one in my collection.

Then one day many years ago I received the first watch I would work on with the classic Patek movement caliber 9-90. This is another favorite in the shaped movement category. 

So when designing the Caliber 20 I wanted a few special features and I wanted a larger movement then these old favorites.  I also wanted beautiful shapes and curves.  I am totally happy with the beauty and quality of our movement and I think it can stand with the best in the world.

We had been wanting to use the "Motor-Barrel" system that were in many of the highest grade American Railroad watches, so this was the movement to start with.  We also incorporated a precise moonphase, and the seconds on a disc.   Click here for more information on the Caliber 20.

Now I have my own classic shaped movement!

Regards,

Roland

We Have Added an Accessories Store to RGM Website

For the first time we have added a store to the RGM webiste, now you can order some accessories online.  We have some straps, buckles, and other items online now.   Over time we will be adding more items.  Not every item will be on the store, so some strap models and other parts will have to be requested thru email.

Let us know what you think.

Click here for Accessory store page

RGM

Optional Hands and Crown for most RGM 151 Models

If you are considering a 151-P or 151-B you might consider the optional vintage (cathedral) style hands that are available in place of the hands we normally put on these models.  We also have an optional onion style crown that can be used on any 151 model.  These two options give the 151 a very vintage feel.

Optional vintage (cathedral) style hands for the 151 models are available in three finishes.  Silver Rhodium (pictured), White, or Black.

Here the 151-B is shown with and without these options.

RGM

RGM Basic Instruction Videos on Using Your Watch

Every so often we will make a basic instruction video to help people understand how to properly use their watch.  These videos are also useful for repair customers as well us ones who are not familiar with using mechanical watches.  

Below are a few I have made so far, feel free to share them.

Best Regards,

Roland

Custom RGM Using Vintage Peseux 260 Competition Chronometer Movement.

This is the second custom watch we have made using this historic and very rare caliber, the famous Peseux 260.   Here is a link to the first one we made "Click Here"

This one has a real glass "Grand Feu" enamel dial.  The movement has been re-staffed, serviced, and a new mainspring fitted.  We also hand polished "Black Polish" all the steel screws and other parts on a tin block.  The final result is a very special no excuse watch that you could be proud to show any watch enthusiast or expert! 

 

We also made a dummy movement to hold the original dial and hands in the chronometer testing case.  The movement could be put back in the original case at anytime if desired.

The dial:

Grand Feu (French for “Great Fire”) technique was uses to make the enamel dial. Creating an enamel watch dial is a high-risk art. Enameling is a technique in which colored powdered glass is applied to a metal plate. The surface is then heated to a temperature high enough to cause the powdered glass to melt and form a new surface. The Grand Feu technique ups the stakes. The repeated baking of successive layers of enamel at extremely high temperatures ensures a uniquely crisp aesthetic while permanently setting the enamel. Using such high heat to create these beautiful dials also poses a risk: each time it is re-fired, the danger of cracking, melting or burning increases. With great risk comes great reward - the appearance of a real glass enamel dial is unmistakable!

FashionBeans Writes About American Watch brands

http://www.fashionbeans.com/2016/best-american-watch-brands/

Some things are iconically, unmistakably American. Menswear staples like jeans, the MA-1 bomber jacket and the Woolrich flannel shirt all have their roots in the land of the free. But watches? The Swiss clinched that one, right?

Well, yes and no. While most watch enthusiasts will point you towards the Matterhorn when asked for their recommendations on the most haute in horology (and they’re not wrong), the US can still fight its corner.

Prior to World War II, America was actually considered a world leader in watchmaking, producing timepieces just as finely finished and functional as their British and Swiss counterparts, but at a much higher yield and for a fraction of the cost. And today, although it’s been some time since the home of the brave had anything homegrown worth flying its flag for, stateside watchmakers are putting it right back on the map.

These are the names to know:

RGM

Founded in 1992 by US watchmaker Roland G. Murphy, Lancaster, PA-based RGM Watch Company produced the first in-house American-made movement for four decades – the RGM Caliber 801 – in 2008.

Riding on the success of that breakthrough, the company has continued to roll out new models – each new timepiece featuring the extraordinarily deft Guilloché (engine-turning) work that not only ranks RGM top of the class at home in the states, but also sees it hold its own among Swiss competitors, too.

Key Piece: The Pennsylvania Tourbillon

Also known as the first serially produced tourbillon made in North America, this watch lets you fully appreciate RGM’s in-house signature movement and the guilloché that’s made its name in watchmaking.

$95,000 in stainless steel, rgmwatches.com

RGM PS-801-E in 18K Solid Rose Gold

Most of the 801 models we make are in stainless steel, but we also make them in solid gold. Pictured here is a PS-801-E with an 18k rose gold case.  The dial of course is solid silver and Engine-Turned by hand.  The blued steel hands are a very nice compliment to the gold and silver.

Just as a side note the first 4 years or so of RGM we only made solid gold or platinum watches, we did not make a stainless steel RGM until the mid 90's.  We offered our first Titanium case in the late 2000's, our model 151.

New 151-PR "Professional Pilot"

RGM has announced a new model in its automatic pilots’ watch lineup – RGM Model 151-PR “Professional Pilot.”

This new model has a very technical but traditional pilot style dial with large Super-Luminova numbers for low light visibility. Two versions are available: one with a date window at 3 o’clock and a more period look without a date. The dial displays hours 1 thru 12 and the minutes 5 thru 60. The dial and second hand have red accents which blend nicely with the classic rhodium finished sword style hands. 

Click here for web page

A prominent element of all 151 models is the American-made case, in stainless steel or titanium.  Each case part is cut from a solid block of 316L surgical stainless steel or aircraft quality titanium. The 151-PR is a functional, technical and aesthetically pleasing pilot watch which fits very comfortably on the wrist. It is a welcome addition to the RGM 151 lineup of technical Pilot watches.